Retinoids 101

Retinoids are hands-down the most talked about product in the skincare and beauty industry currently. Originally used to treat acne in the 1970s, it has since been found that retinoids also have amazing anti-aging effects. They are a topical derivative of vitamin A, and unlike many other creams and moisturizers that sit on the surface of your skin, retinoids work to change your skin from the inside out. For dermatologists, retinoids are considered the gold standard. Although they are very popular, there can still be some confusion surrounding retinoids in regards to what they do, the different forms they come in, and how to properly use them. 

What do RETINOIDS do?

Retinoids are the ultimate multitaskers. They help to stimulate new collagen and increase the speed of skin cell turnover. Not only does this help fight acne and acne scars, but it also improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, repairs sun damage on the skin, and evens texture and skin tone.

Retinoids work by promoting surface skin cells to turn over and die rapidly, making way for new cell growth underneath.  They help balance your skin’s hydration levels by sloughing off dead skin cells that dry out skin, as well as controlling excess oil and sebum production. This exfoliation effect reduces skin build-up that clogs pores preventing comedones, blackheads, and blemishes, in addition to minimizing oily skin.

As skin ages, skin cells are produced less frequently, resulting in a dull, rough complexion. As mentioned above, retinoids increase collagen and elastin production. They hamper the breakdown of collagen and thicken the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles get their start. This helps plump the skin, resulting in brighter, smoother skin while minimizing the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

WHAT FORMS DO RETINOIDS COME IN?

“Retinoid” is an umbrella term to describe an array of vitamin A-based products used topically on the skin. This includes over-the-counter retinoids, medical-grade retinols, and prescription strength tretinoin. Those with oilier, more resistant skin may be able to tolerate a stronger prescription retinoid, whereas those with dryer, more sensitive skin may want to start with milder over the counter retinol.

3 Rules on How to use your retinoid

Because retinoids cause skin to shed cells faster than normal, you’re likely to experience mild peeling, dryness, irritation, and/or breakouts as your skin adjusts. Luckily, following these 3 basic rules will help to mitigate the effects:

I. 

First, choose the gentlest formula and begin slowly. For the best results, we recommend starting by using your retinoid just 2 nights a week for 2 weeks (Mon & Thurs). If your skin is tolerating it, then increase to 3 nights a week for 2 weeks (Mon, Wed, Fri). Once you are tolerating the retinoid at 3 nights a week,  increase to nightly use.

II. 

Second, if you are experiencing dryness and irritation while your skin is acclimating, you can use a moisturizer after applying your retinoid. It is very common in the first couple weeks of using a retinoid to experience peeling. If you are one of these people, the sandwich method of moisturizing may be right for you. With this method, you would first moisturize your skin after cleansing, then apply the retinoid, followed by another thin layer of moisturizer. This dilutes your retinoid, so if you are still irritated after using the sandwich method, you may have to decrease the strength of your retinoid.

III.

Third, Consistency is KEY! It can take up to three months before you start to see results with your retinoid. If you are not consistent within these first few months, you won’t be able to see the benefits. It is important to keep applying your retinoid. Even if you feel like it is not doing anything, it is!

Retinoids can be broken down by ultraviolet light, so it is important to apply it only at night.  If you apply it in the morning, you risk inactivating the product before it has time to exert its beneficial effects. Retinoids increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, making your skin more susceptible to sun damage. It is extremely important to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily with an SPF of at least 30. Sunburns are one of the greatest risks of using retinol, but can easily be prevented by wearing sunscreen.

Find YOUR Retinoid

As your dermatologist, we will work with you to address the issues you are concerned about and determine what your skincare goals are, while determining which retinoids and products would be right for your skin.